SETTING GOALS FOR YOUR SITUATION

Before we get started you'll need to ask yourself several important questions about your individual goals. Answering these questions will help you determine how to plan your hunting season. 

Question #1: What is your goal for your overall experience? Do you want to harvest a mature buck or are you more interested in a quality hunting experience regardless of the size of the deer?  

It takes different tactics to achieve different goals. Hunting a mature buck is different than hunting deer in general in respect to the time and effort you will need to put in. 

Keep in mind that the term “mature buck” is relative. A three year old buck in most areas of Michigan is a mature buck but in Iowa a mature buck might be 4+ years old. It all depends on your specific situation. There’s nothing wrong with targeting a mature buck in your area, but make sure your expectations are realistic. It’s very difficult to harvest a 5 year old buck if your area does not support those kinds of animals. 

Things To Consider When Hunting Mature Bucks

• Mature buck numbers are limited on a property. Sometimes there are NONE on a property. Here's a common scenario: often a hunter will decide to target a specific deer on a small area. Maybe they have night time trail cam pics of it for an entire season.  Unbeknownst to the hunter, the buck is living on a neighboring property during the day for the duration of deer season.  This is a recipe for failure if your only goal is to harvest the specific buck.  Of course this is not always the case but an important conundrum none the less.

• Mature bucks require more time and effort.  A common theme amongst most successful hunters who pursue mature bucks is the long time commitment. Many of the Outdoor TV hosts consistently harvesting mature bucks have a large amount of land dedicated to raising such deer and an exponentially greater amount of time to pursue them compared to the average person.  Trying to replicate their tactics in a state with younger age classes, smaller properties, more hunting competition and less time to commit may leave you frustrated. 

• Mature bucks don’t move as far or as often as other deer. These bucks do not move very far during daylight. For example, if a hunter is setup 300 yards away from a mature buck bedding location on an evening hunt, odds are great that he’ll never make it to their setup before the end of legal shooting time. There are certainly cases where this does happen but they are rare. To close the gap, the hunter must setup as close as possible to the area where the buck lives which is risky and difficult.  It takes a great deal of time and effort to learn the skills needed to do this consistently.  However, if it sounds like a challenge you’d like to pursue then go for it!  Chasing mature bucks is humbling but  incredibly rewarding when you commit to it.

Have we steered you away yet? Our intention is not to discourage you from the goal of harvesting a mature buck, however, we feel it's important that you understand the reality of the goal so you can enjoy hunting as much as possible. New hunters tend to give up if they set unrealistic goals because they feel like a failure and we don't want to see that happen. Also, if your time in the woods is limited due to work/family then it may also be frustrating to hold out for a mature buck and you might enjoy yourself more if you have a different goal. 

At THP we try to blend the two goals. Our goals vary based on situation, location and experience level of the hunter. For example, if we’re traveling to a state like Alabama and have one week to hunt, our goals for a harvest are much different than hunting Iowa for a month during the rut. In the Alabama situation, a close opportunity at a deer of any kind on public land is what we’re after. In Iowa, however, we may wait for a close opportunity at a nicer buck since there are more of them and we have more time. 

No matter what, we try to challenge ourselves without the hunt becoming too stressful. Hunting is supposed to be fun!  A general rule we use is this - if an animal approaches our setup, offers an ethical shot and we are excited about it we consider taking the shot.  We setup to try to harvest a mature buck but keep an opportunistic mindset. If a smaller deer comes into range and we're excited - they better look out!

Question #2: How much time and money do you have to hunt?

This answer helps you determine your goal as well.  Do you have a few weekends to scout in the summer?  Do you plan to hunt mostly weekends during Fall or are you planning a week’s vacation or both?  Can you get away from work a couple evenings/mornings per week for a few hours at a time?  These answers will change the tactics you use and your goals as a hunter.  If you want to maximize efficiency, it’s good to address these ahead of time so you can plan accordingly.  Let’s look at a few common situations.

Hunter #1 - The Weekend Warrior 

You have a full time job and family so scouting and hunting are limited to weekends. Let's say your bow season lasts for two months before gun season starts and your goal is to harvest a nice buck for your area before gun season. This gives you roughly 10 total hunts to get the job done (let’s define a “hunt” as one sit: so morning, midday, and evening would constitute 3 hunts). You also don’t have the luxury of picking the best movement days based on weather because of your schedule. What’s the solution?  Here are some ideas -

1) Speed scout bedding areas in the off season on weekends.  Scouting can be as important as hunting. The more quick trips you can take to the area to familiarize yourself with it in the off season, the better equipped you’ll be when it’s time to hunt. Use trail cameras in staging areas adjacent to bedding.  Make sure you can check these efficiently before hunting in the Fall. It may be helpful to run through a handful of cameras midday during season before choosing your hunting area for that evening.

2) Hunt more aggressive. You have limited time to get an ethical opportunity so every hunt needs to be a “killing” situation.  If you spend half your hunts sitting observation areas it’s possible you’ll see more deer but have lesser odds of getting one into bow range.  Setup on specific sign close to bedding areas where you have an ethical shot to at least one specific movement pattern.  Whether that’s a trail, scrape, etc.  Make sure you can cover that spot in your setup and be ready to capitalize on your opportunity.

3) Adapt to the conditions on THAT day.  Since you can’t choose which days to hunt, you’ll need to make setups work on days with less than ideal conditions.  If it’s hot and humid try setting up near water sources or heavily shaded bedding spots. Use a windy day to sneak deep into the bedding area or still hunt. Using the day’s specific conditions to your advantage is the name of the game. Each week, patterns will also change throughout the Fall. One weekend you may be hunting a bedding area adjacent to a hot acorn flat and the next weekend the same area is void of deer.  Being adaptable is a must.

Hunter #2 - The Vacationer

Each year you plan to take one week’s vacation in early November to hunt the rut in your state, but you aren't able to spend much time hunting before this timeframe. One week’s vacation yields 10 total hunts similar to the Weekend Warrior. The difference is these hunts occur consecutively instead of once per week. Here are some ideas for approaching this situation.

1) Scout through your hunt. The advantage you have here is the ability to hunt consecutive days. If you can spend time learning what the deer are doing RIGHT NOW, you can make adjustments accordingly each day. Trade a few hunts early in your vacation for long range observation sits or boots-on-the-ground scouting. This intel will be useful as the week goes on and may help you understand the current situation in the woods.

2) Be mobile. This is especially important when bowhunting. Ten yards could be the difference between a shot opportunity and the deer walking just out of range. Some sort of mobile hunting system will enable you to move around as you observe deer movement.  For us, most of our bucks are killed this way.  Success happens after a few days of scouting and moving around the area before getting into a killer setup.

3) Stay the course.  A week of hunting sounds fun but can wear on you after several consecutive days in the field (at least it does for me!).  Plan ahead and take necessities with you.  Bring water and food so you can stay out longer either hunting or scouting. Walking back and forth to the car between hunts wears me down more than the lack of sleep. Pack your stuff with you and stay in the woods during every available hour of legal shooting time if you can.  Disclaimer: Like many decisions, this is entirely up to you. If it's more fun to go back to camp and chill with your buddies then do that. The hunt is what YOU make it.

Hunter #3 - The Flexible Worker

You’ve got a job that requires an hourly commitment each week BUT you have some control over the hours you work. It’s possible for you to take off early for an afternoon hunt or come in late from a morning sit as long as you make the time up later in the week. This situation also affords you 10 hunts per season but you have some control over when you can hunt. 

1) Try to pick the best movement days.  Unlike the weekend warrior, you can be more selective about which days you hunt.  Keep an eye on the forecast and plan your hunts around cold fronts and the high pressure days immediately following them. If possible, hunt 2-3 consecutive times during one of these weather periods to capitalize on better deer movement. 

2) Strike while the iron is HOT.  If you get close or find some hot sign, try to get right back in there ASAP for a follow up hunt. For instance, if you sit an observation stand one evening and see a nice buck exit a bedding area, take the next day off to move in tighter before he changes his pattern. Obviously more days hunting means more days working at a later date but the flexibility gives you extra options of when and how to hunt.

Question #3 - Which season do you plan to hunt?

As evidenced above, your situation dictates when you can hunt.  Maybe it’s easier for you to hunt the early season than during the rut or the exact opposite.  Tactics and strategies will change for you depending on the time frame you select (we’ll get into specifics later). 

Question #4 - Which weapon do you plan to use? 

Bowhunting takes more time and effort to harvest a deer so make sure you select realistic goals. This is a general formula but in our experience, it takes about twice the amount of time to get an ethical opportunity with a bow vs. a gun (dependent on the type of gun of course).  For example, you may need a full 7 day vacation to get an opportunity with a bow when a three day weekend with a gun provides an opportunity.

Question #5 - Are you traveling or hunting near home?

Do you plan to hunt close to home or are you seeking an out of state DIY trip?  There are many good options for traveling to hunt whitetails on a variety of budgets and we’ll get into some of those later.

Things to consider for an out of state trip:

1) Finding lodging or camping. If you’re going out of state, this step is extremely important. Efficiency is paramount for success so try to camp as close to your hunting area as possible. Select an area with multiple hunting options within driving distance. If your initial plans fail, you may have to pick up camp and travel to another area. This takes valuable time and money so try to iron out these details before your trip. Call ahead and check on the regulations for camping and reserve a campsite if necessary. 

2) Costs of the hunt/trip. Create a budget for your trip. Things to consider: new gear needed (such as a large cooler for hauling a deer), tag/license, fuel, vehicle maintenance (do you need an oil change before leaving?), food, and lodging/camping fees. Budget in a little extra in case of issues. 

3) How are you going to care for the meat should you harvest an animal? If it might be hard to transport it home look into state donation programs. If you're planning to transport the meat home then a 65L (or larger) cooler will be needed.  

 The importance of having effective equipment for your hunt cannot be overemphasized. Many people ask us what gear we recommend - over half of the questions we get are gear related. While there are things that we use and love people have their own preferences so what might be right for us may not be right for you. There's a lot to consider with gear - how much will you use it, your budget, ect. Gear choices are entirely up to you.  It's also important to remember that there's a difference between essential and extra gear. This is what we use for different situations. 

THE ESSENTIALS

To start, we’ll outline items that come with us on nearly every hunt.  They are simple but can be overlooked when packing for your hunt. It’s always a good idea to label your gear (name and phone number) in the event you lose it.

Food and Water  

We pack hard plastic water bottles or a water bladder.  These don’t crinkle and make noise than a typical plastic water bottle. It never hurts to have extra water stored in the vehicle as well. Lack of water can force you out of the woods early. Same goes for food. We pack Clif bars, fruit, and Mountain House meals with us during the hunt.  We’ll also make sandwiches before the hunt and pack them.  Main point here is this - take food and water along and you’ll stay in the woods longer.  Here are some links to water bottles, water bladders, and 7 gallon water tanks. 

Hunting license, ink pen, and cell phone

These are incredibly basic but more important than most other things. Store these in a consistent location on your person. That will help you keep track of them before, during, and after every hunt. If you constantly put them in different areas, it’s likely you will forget them at some point. Some may see this as non-essential but we also carry a small battery pack and charging cable for our phones.  

Mapping

One of the most important tools we carry while hunting public land is our cell phones that contain the OnX Hunt app. We use this app to discover new areas of public land, ensure we remain within boundaries, record our findings in the woods, and overall navigate the land safely and effectively. This tool has changed the way we hunt public land and we use it every hunt. Use code THP when purchasing an OnX hunt subscription in order to save 20%.

Tree saddle, platform, and climbing devices  

We still use a portable tree stand occasionally, but have been using tree saddles the past two seasons. The main reason is to be more mobile. The saddle enables us to get elevated fast or setup on the ground if the situation dictates it . Click here to check out the Tethrd saddle equipment we use. For climbing sticks, we use a variety of different products, Our favorites are Tethrd ONE Sticks, Beast Gear Sticks, and Wild Edge Steps. The combination of the saddle, platform, and lightweight climbing sticks allows us to always have the options to get elevated if the situation dictates it, without adding a bunch of extra weight to our packs. To help silence these products and reduce metal on metal contact noise, we cover our platforms, sticks, and other metal components with Stealth Strips.

Proper Clothing

We try to wear clothes that are quiet with several pockets so we can store as much gear as possible in our clothing.  It’s also important to pack a beanie or jacket with a hood to keep your ears warm. Gloves are also important.  When it gets cold, Hot Hands oo a long way for keeping your hands and feet warm.  Face paint or a baclava is also handy for keeping you hidden and warm. Our whole crew wears a range of different clothing brands.

Bow, Accessories, Release

 This seems obvious but most bowhunters have forgotten their release at some point and it’s never a good thing. Always store your bow with the arrows and release attached. Strap your release onto the riser every time you remove it from the bow.  This keeps everything together and makes these three items harder to forget.  It’s fine to shoot without your quiver on your bow but good to practice with it both ways.  It’s good to have a backup release in your bow case at all times. For bow accessories, our whole crew mainly uses the same accessories from Trophy Ridge. You can find the whole package for the accessories we use here. Use code THP10 to save 10% on Bear archery bows, and code THP21 to save 20% on all Trophy Ridge accessories. 

Arrows and Broadheads

Our whole crew uses a variety of products in the Arrow and broadhead category. For arrows, we have found success with Vector Custom Shop products. Their algorithm helps you select an arrow that will fit your bow based on the specs you are shooting. They also spine test all of their arrows before fletching to eliminate the need to nock tune.  Use code THP to save 10% on all Vector Custom Shop products. The list of broadheads we use gets a little longer, but in general we are all using a fixed cut on contact head that we believe optimizes penetration. Here is a list of some of our favorites;

-Manus Stinger 150

-Magnus Black Hornet 125

-Cuthroat 150

-Grizzle Stik Massai

-Iron Will

Bow hanger

We pack a strap on bow hanger or smaller clip-on hook to hang our bow once in the tree or on the ground. Here is the strap and hook we use most. These are not a traditional screw in hanger and are legal on most public lands.

Firearm and ammo

When it comes to rifles, we use a variety of firearms and ammo across the group. The main goal when selecting a firearm and ammo is to find something within your price range that you can shoot accurately and comfortable using. The biggest factor here is to practice with your weapon and make sure you are sighted in prior to taking it afield. Our favorite scope to put on all our firearms is the Vortex Diamondback 3x9x40, which is a great combination of affordability and quality. For muzzleloaders, we have found success with the following combination of products.

T/C Impact Muzzleloader

Barnes Spitfire TMZ Bullets 250 Grain

100 Grains Blackhorn 209 powder

In addition to these firearms, we like to carry around BOG shooting sticks to make sure we always have a sturdy shooting position to make a clean ethical shot. 

Grunt call

We try to pack one with us on every hunt, despite the timing of the year. Calling deer is most effective in and around the rut but keep in mind deer vocalize year round. Grunting can be effective outside of the rut depending on the situation.  It’s best to pack a grunt call every time in the event you need it. Use code THP2018 to save 10% on Woodhaven Calls.

Optics

Binoculars are most important to us with rangefinder in a close second, especially when bowhunting.  A bino harness/strap is handy always have them ready, and store your rangefinder in a place it can be accessed quickly with little movement. We prefer the Vortex Diamondback 10x42’s for deer hunting and their Impact rangefinder. Use code THP10 to save 10% on Vortex Optics.

Boots

We like to have a pair of knee boots, hip waders, and hiking boots in our vehicles. We’ve used Dryshod, Muck, Cabela’s, Lacrosse, and several other brands of rubber boots. Frog Togs make quality hip waders at an affordable price. We’ve used Merrel, Keen, Danner, and many other brands of hiking boots. We go through a set of knee and hiking boots per year. Main thing to remember is to keep moisture out of them. If they get wet (trust us-they will), take them home, remove the soles and use a boot dryer after your hunt.  

Knife(s)

Having a sharp knife is very important.  Most of them will work-just make sure it’s sharp. You’ll hopefully be using it to field dress a deer at some point! Havalon knives are great! They are small, and the replaceable blade options always provide a sharp edge. 

Milkweed or Wind Indicator

We take a pods worth of milkweed seeds in our packs. One pod of milkweed can last 3-4 hunts depending on how often you check the wind.  We also use this milkweed indicator which holds between 3 and 4 pods worth of milkweed. If milkweed doesn't grow in your area, or you want a cool pouch to store it in, shop our THP Milkweed Wind Indicators.

Trail Cameras

We have a number of different strategies for using trail cameras to assist us in gathering intel. The most common ways we use cameras are; monitoring areas to focus on hunting pre-season, letting cameras "soak" through the full season, or cell cameras to monitor bedding areas in order to know exactly when a buck is using that specific area, The two primary cameras we use are the Exodus Lift 2, and the Exodus Render Cell Camera. Use code THP10 to save 10% on all Exodus cameras.

Camping Gear

We are typically camping when traveling from state to state hunting. We like to stay at local campgrounds for access to electricity and water, but like the ability to remain mobile and able to adjust camping locations quickly if needed. Each of us has a camping set up that suits our needs, but in general our gear is very minimalistic. Below is a list of a handful of items most of us use to keep comfortable when spending much of our time camping;

-Camp cot

-One man tent

-Six man tent

-Air up sleeping pads

-Foam egg crate mattress pad

-40 degree sleeping bag

-0 degree portable (for backpacking) sleeping bag

-Jet boil

GEAR FOR PACKING OUT AND QUARTERING DEER

NOTICE: Be sure to check your state and local regulations to confirm this is a legal practice. Some states DO NOT allow quartering deer in the field. 

1) Frame or Backpack

We use a variety of different packs. Frame packs are better suited for packing heavy loads but we’ve managed to pack out deer with traditional back packs as well. A pack with lumbar strap is helpful to distribute weight.  We’ve used brands like Exo, Mystery Ranch, Alps, and Cabela’s. As with most things, you get what you pay for in a pack. If you plan to pack out multiple deer or use your pack for Western trips, we’d recommend investing in a quality frame pack like Exo or Mystery Ranch.  Aaron’s pack is an Exo 4800 and works well for packing out deer. 

Note - bungee cords or Niteize gear ties are handy accessories to have when packing gear.

2) Game Bags 

There are tons of different brands.  We’ve used Caribou and the Born and Raised Outdoors game bags for elk and deer.  Smaller “deer” sized bags work best for whitetails but you can make just about any of them work. 

Your setup may be the #1 factor when it comes to consistently harvesting deer.

Messages come in from viewers all the time that look like this -

“I found a good looking spot while scouting.  Where do I set up my tree stand?” 

“How do you know where to setup in order to get a shot?”

“Should I use a tree saddle or stand in my spot?  Or should I hunt from the ground?”

While these questions seem simple the answers are complicated because every setup in every spot is different. We’ll discuss general topics here but these tactics are situational. There's an entire section later in the course devoted to situational tactics and setups. In that section we thoroughly break down various hunts we've have over the years and talk about our detailed setups.

#1 GET CLOSE

When bowhunting it’s important to take close range shots at whitetails. We rarely shoot past 30 yards. A 20 yard shot for us on the ground or in a tree is most common. With modern equipment today, it’s possible to shoot much farther but once you go past the 30 yard mark, the deer has enough time to react unpredictably. Not to say you can’t kill them beyond that distance - you certainly can. We just prefer to take closer shots to keep the odds of a quick kill as high as possible.

Be sure to setup perpendicular to the sign (trails, rubs, scrapes, etc.) where you expect the deer to be traveling.  This will provide a closer range, broadside shot opportunity at the passing deer.

 EXAMPLE: 

You find a trail with big, fresh tracks leading in and out of a bedding area and decide to set up. The catch is, there are only tiny trees and some thin ground cover nearby. What do you do? In many cases, hunters will move nearby until they find a more suitable tree or better ground setup. The problem here is it often puts you farther away from the trail. Unfortunately there is no “right” answer.  Most of the time, we try and make a setup work within 30 yards of the trail. This might mean hanging 5 feet off the ground in a tiny tree, digging a hole in the ground, using a ghillie suit for added concealment, etc. Our goal is to be close enough to that spot in the trail where we can make a quality killing shot on a deer if it walks the trail. Sitting farther back in a great looking tree might take you out of the game. Setup where the deer want to be.

#2 WIND

The most important factor when setting up is your wind. Is it blowing straight down the trail you expect the deer to walk?  Or just off to one side?  A few degrees of difference in the wind direction can be the difference in getting a shot and getting busted. The best way to learn what you can get away with is trial and error. Pay close attention with milkweed throughout your hunt and after deer pass by to see how the wind is behaving. Often, there are small tweaks you can make to the setup deal with changing wind. This could mean climbing a tree or the opposite - climbing down out of a tree. 

EXAMPLE: 

We have hunted in the bottom of ditches and creeks where wind/thermals have caused our scent to pool. Being on the ground in this scenario, the scent pools very close and is more contained. If we jump out of the ditch, our wind swirls and travels much farther. If we hunt in a nearby tree the wind would swirl so bad that nearly every deer approaching could detect us. The importance of paying close attention to the wind cannot be overstated. Spend time learning how it behaves in different environments.

Benefits of Wind

Wind can also conceal movement.  If it’s blowing 15 mph, branches will be moving and can make your presence harder to detect by oncoming deer.  We’ve walked up on deer calmly feeding many times in high winds and they had no clue we were there. In contrast, a dead calm evening where pressured deer are coming by on pins and needles favors the deer. They seem to move slowly and more cautious in these types of conditions.

Thermals

It’s hard to discuss wind without touching on thermals.  They are difficult to understand.  We constantly get asked, “How do thermals work?” 

In the basic sense, thermals fall in the early morning/late evening and rise during the day while the sun is heating the ground.  They can be MORE predictable than the wind in some situations. Dan Infalt from The Hunting Beast has some tremendous information about wind and thermals - especially how they behave in hilly terrain. Here is a link to an informative thread from his website - http://www.thehuntingbeast.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=34869-

Dan also has several informative DVD's on buck bedding.  Check them out at this link - https://shop.thehuntingbeast.com/9-dvd-s

Here's an example of a time we had thermals work for and against us in the same morning: We had a spot where the stand was bulletproof during the first few hours of the day before the sun got high. After 9 o'clock though our odds of getting busted went way up no matter which direction the wind was blowing. The stand was on a thick travel corridor between two bedding areas that bucks used to get from A to B without being detected. It was not uncommon to see bucks moving through this area at all hours of the day during the rut. The challenge here was always the wind. After hunting it numerous times and getting busted from all directions on various wind conditions we found a “chink in their armor” so to speak. We tried hunting a dead calm, cool morning with light and variable winds. We noticed the thermals caused our scent to hang in the air during the mid-morning time frame right before the sun came up (first 2 hours after sunrise). The bucks passing through during this time did not smell us. Once the sun came up and day winds increased, all bets were off.  We went from having mature bucks walk by at 7:00 A.M. to getting winded at 11:00AM. 

Here is a video example from this area:

 #3 FINDING COVER

If you only take one thing away from this section, always remember to ask this question.  What can the deer see?  Often we set up in a spot based on what WE can see or shoot and don’t stop to think about what the oncoming deer can see. For example, if you found a good tree to hang in but no other trees behind it - only blue sky - the odds of the deer skylining you increase. Once you’ve found the deer sign that you want to hunt, start looking for trees in that spot before you walk away from it for two reasons: 1) This is the last spot you stood near the trail meaning oncoming deer may stop and smell your ground scent. You want to be able to shoot that exact location, or go farther up the trail but not directly on the trail so you have an opportunity before the deer get to your ground scent. 2) This is close to the deer’s point of view. Look for spots that offer good concealment from this viewpoint but also make sure the spot you choose allows for a clear shot.

Obviously some spots don’t allow for great concealment but that does not mean it shouldn’t be a priority when picking a setup.  We’ll break this into two categories - ground setups and tree setups.

Tree Hunting

Preferred height in trees is dependent upon your comfort level. As a general rule, the higher you go, the less likely you’ll be detected BUT the shot angle gets steeper so there are tradeoffs. On average we are between 15 and 20 feet up with a saddle or stand. 

The wider the tree is, the more back cover you’ll have as deer approach but there’s a catch.  Big, wide trees are harder to climb with sticks, steps, etc.  Some of the factory straps on climbing sticks, stands, and saddle platforms will only reach so far.  Packing Versastraps along for the hunt may be a good idea as they’ll provide more length should you need it. We bring them along and they are rarely used but occasionally come in handy. You can also hang stands ahead of time if permitted on the area.

There is give and take when it comes to branches and foliage in the tree.  The more branches it has, the better the concealment. However, more branches mean fewer shooting options.  Most of the time, we try to pick a spot on the side of a tree where we can get a clear shot to the predicted travel or sign we’re hunting. For example, if we find a hot scrape we’ll look for a tree on the downwind side that can shoot the scrape or the trails leading to it.  Ideally we’d be able to shoot the trails AND the scrape but sometimes have to give up one or the other. 

In areas with tall, straight trees with few branches, it may be important to get as high as possible to avoid the deer’s line of sight. It’s also possible to keep your scent above the deer in some situations.  We’ve experienced this a few different times in setups around 30 feet or higher.

AVOID the skyline. This is why back and front cover in a tree is important.  If your silhouette is hanging off a tree with sky behind, it’ll be easy for deer to pinpoint your location.

Another important factor to consider is cover between the setup and the approaching deer.  Anything that blocks the deer’s vision on its approach will help you get the bow drawn back undetected. This could be anything from a bush, to a small tree, branches, etc.  Anticipate this BEFORE you go to set up.  This again is why it’s so important to envision what the deer can see on its way in BEFORE it gets there.

 Here's a good example hunt where we show the setup from the deer's perspective. 

Ground Hunting

Many of the same principles for trees also apply to ground setups. Again, there are advantages and disadvantages. A disadvantage of ground hunting is the lack of visibility.  Often we can observe movement from a distance while perched up in a tree, then make a move on the next hunt to set up closer to the deer. However, the advantage of hunting from the ground is the ability to be mobile with your setup. For example, if you observe a buck at 80 yards making a scrape and entering a bedding area, it’s much easier and more efficient to make a quick move on the ground towards that spot than it is to take everything down out of a tree and move. 

This is not to say the two can’t work together.  In fact, they certainly can and is the preferred way most of us hunt.  On several occasions, we gain intel from a tree as we observe deer from a distance, then move in tighter on the ground to get a shot - either through spot and stalk or an ambush point.

When setting up for a ground ambush, it’s helpful to find horizontal cover.  Brush piles, downed trees, root wads, bushes, etc.  This helps to break up your outline better than simply sitting up against a tree.

Here's a good example or what to look for in concealment for a ground setup.

REMEMBER: It’s also important to practice draw in anticipation of a shot. You should do this in any setup but it's especially important on the ground. Make sure to raise up high enough so your cam is not resting on the ground at full draw. Also be cautious of vegetation that could get caught up in your string or impact the arrow as it leaves the bow. 

One of the challenges we discussed earlier was sky lining from a tree.  On the ground, this isn't an issue. However, the lack of visibility often means your movement has to be restricted even more since you can’t see the deer coming until they are very close. In a tree, it's possible to spot the deer from a distance and have more time to prepare for a shot. On the ground, this is typically not the case. Deer are wired to detect movement so make sure you're set up in the “ready to shoot” position on the ground. Then when the deer shows up nearby you can make as little movement as possible to draw the bow and make the shot. 

IMPORTANT: A major factor when ground hunting is getting a clear shot.  Vegetation can deflect your arrow so be conscious of all obstructions between you and the deer.

#4 ADAPTABILITY

We’d argue that the ability to adapt your setup to any situation is the most important skill a deer hunter can have. Sometimes this means setting up in a tree, on the the ground, or still hunting, etc. We’ll have new hunt breakdowns on this course each year that show different situations and how we set up in them. 

At the end of every hunt, look at what you did right and wrong in your setup. Here are some questions to ask:

1) Were you too far from the deer? 

2) Did you get busted in the setup?

3) Could you have chosen a better tree? 

4) Would a ground setup worked better to get close to the deer? 

5) Did the deer smell you and is there a better location nearby with more stable wind currents? 

These are the types of questions we ask ourselves before, during, and after a hunt. Over time the most common trend we see is that bucks move through thick cover, often in spots where the setup options are limited. This means you’ve got to get creative. So many times, we receive this comment from a viewer - “I saw a big buck pass by at a distance but I could not get him to come close enough for a shot. How do I get them to come by my stand?”  The answer most of the time is you can’t.  Get down and position your setup in a spot where you can shoot the bucks on THEIR movement pattern. 

Jake and Grant killed a buck in the fall of 2019 up in North Dakota.  This buck and two others were bedding and feeding on standing corn and canola - there was not a tree within 1/2 mile of these deer.  They had to use the standing corn to get as close to the bedded buck as possible then wait patiently for several hours before the buck offered a clear shot.

#5 Getting Creative

The subject of scent control is a complicated one. 

In this section we’ll share some of our thoughts and give you references for methods that work for other hunters we know.

Here are the most common questions we hear about scent control. 

“What’s your scent control regimen?”

“Do you play the wind or ignore it?”

“How does ground scent impact the hunt?”

“What do we check wind with?”

“What happens if a buck smells you?”

In our opinion, scent control is far less important than most of the other topics discussed in this course. There are many successful hunters who all use different practices and so the debate rages on. The reality of scent control is there are a pile of ways to “skin the cat” and hunters have used all of them with varying degrees of success. One experienced hunter will swear by scent control clothing while the next will practice something opposite. The point is - BOTH have success. Where their opinions differ in scent control, they are similar in woodsmanship, scouting methods, and the drive to succeed. We suggest prioritizing those areas over this topic, but since it is a topic that most people want to learn about here are our thoughts on 3 methods of scent control. Many hunters use a combination of all of these so don’t be afraid to experiment until you find what works best for you. We don’t believe there is a “magic” answer here. Your confidence in the methods YOU use are most important.

METHOD #1: Scent Elimination 

These are products that claim to eliminate scent. They come in many forms: sprays, scent free or carbon clothing, ozone, etc. Most of these require an elaborate process that needs to be followed very carefully to see success. If you choose this route, pay close attention to the directions on how to use it properly and avoid missing key steps.

Our Experience: Most of us have tried scent elimination products and currently don’t use any. We weren't sure if it had a positive impact on our hunts. We’ve filmed hunts for years with two people in every setup. The added person puts twice the amount of human scent into the environment, yet we’ve had deer downwind with and without scent control and had similar results. Sometimes they smelled us, sometimes they didn’t. To be fair, it's possible that we didn't follow the instructions of the scent elimination product properly. Eventually we just got sick of the time spent trying to organize and learn the stuff so we gave it up. We felt the time spent on scent elimination detracted from valuable scouting/hunting time. Eventually we cut it out of our process and have seen better results since then. Probably due to the increased focus on woodsmanship and scouting. 

Now remember, these are just our opinions based on personal experience.  It’s possible that we will change our methods at some point should we gain confidence in something else.

METHOD #2 - Scent Containment 

Some hunters focus on containing their scent instead of eliminating it. The thought is that by keeping the scent trapped inside of something, it keeps deer from smelling them. The most common method of doing this is with an enclosed blind of some sort. Some of these blinds are designed to be air tight.  They can require an elaborate set up and are difficult to move but can be very nice, especially when hunting private land. In our experience, the blinds do seem to work for containing scent when closed BUT you’ve got to open it to shoot at some point. 

METHOD #3 - Hunting the Wind 

Wind is the great equalizer when hunting whitetails, especially with a bow.  To hunt the wind means to attempt to set up where it’s blowing your scent away from the deer.  Seems simple enough, right?

Understanding wind and thermals in different environments takes many years of experience. The best way we’ve found to simplify the process is to use wind checkers often.  Milkweed is our favorite because it shows what the wind is doing as it follows the currents away from your location.  For example, we’ve dropped milkweed at our location and it blew away in one direction only to float back a short time later following a different wind current. On the flip side, we’ve found great spots with consistent winds where we don’t get busted as often.

We discussed wind and thermals a bit in an earlier section.  If you didn’t see it, click here to go back and review. 

TIP: When looking for a place to set up always be conscious of the ground scent you’re leaving. It’s hard to say if it’ll affect the deer or not when they walk up to it. Seems like mature does take issue with ground scent more often than bucks but occasionally it’ll whig a mature buck out. The last thing you want is to have a buck coming in, having it hit your ground scent and turn around before offering a shot. This has happened to us many times and the problem is magnified when walking through thick cover or tall weeds that are brushing against your pant legs and boots. In flat cover where the only contact is on your boots, it’s not as big of an issue. Either way, it’s best to identify the setup out in front of you and avoid tromping around the whole area.  Try not to walk over hot sign that you intend to setup over it.

SCENARIO TIME!

One of the FAQ’s at the top of this section was “What happens if a buck smells you?”.  Most folks ask these questions in a series of questions. 

QUESTION #1: A mature buck smelled me, what happens now? 

It's hard to know how to answer these because every situation is different, but it’s rarely a good thing 😬 .  We’ve had young bucks smell us, get nervous and bound away, only to see them cruise back by from a different direction a few hours later. Mature bucks on the other hand, are a different story. Some will smell you and leave the area entirely. Remember, these things live and die by their nose. They catch a whiff of you nearby and immediately know that smell isn’t supposed to be there - especially in a pressured area.

QUESTION #2: How far will they go?

That depends. Sometimes only a few hundred yards before stopping at the next bedding area and setting up shop. Available cover and the number of secure areas on the property can dictate that. For example, say you’re hunting a small wooded draw in agriculture country with a couple small pockets of thick cover.  A mature buck smells you in the draw and runs across the field onto the neighbor's property. There’s a good chance he’s not going to walk past that stand location again during daylight for some time. That’s not to say another buck won’t move in and take his place, but that specific deer just figured you out and left. 

Here’s another example - say you’re hunting down South and there are many pine thickets and swamps located around the property.  During a hunt near one of these thick areas, a buck winds you and bounds off out of sight. He might not return to that exact spot in daylight but only moves a few hundred yards away to the next secure area. In contrast to the example above, the higher density of secure areas keep the bucks safe and doesn’t force them to escape long distances.

QUESTION #3: How long will they avoid my stand?

The truth is, there's no way of knowing. Sometimes they’ll come straight back to it and try to investigate the disturbance, usually on high alert.  In our experience they come back to the area but it might be awhile. We’ll see them there a month or a year later. 

MAIN TAKEAWAY  

If a buck smells you, the likelihood of killing that same deer out of the same spot in the short term goes way down. This doesn’t mean you can’t kill other deer out of that spot so don't be afraid to hunt the same spot again. It all depends on your goals. However, if you’re hunting a specific deer, we’d start bouncing around to different bedding areas nearby until we found the buck again or give the area a break for 2 weeks and start over.

This is an incredibly important topic. If you shoot a deer and can’t find it that’s a problem! Let’s go over some useful information and resources to help in the event it happens to you.

Here's an interview with Shane Simpson who is part of the United Blood Trackers Association. Here we'll break down common mistakes hunters make when tracking wounded deer. 

PAYING ATTENTION RIGHT AFTER THE SHOT 

We receive the same story over and over again from viewers - “I hit a buck last night and can’t find any blood. I didn’t see where the hit was. What should I do?”

This is a common mistake we’ve all made. You finally get the chance at a buck you’ve been waiting for all season, release the arrow and go totally ham.  In other words, the adrenaline rush and excitement of the shot overpowers our critical thinking mechanism in the brain and you immediately lose focus after the shot. Every one of us has made the same mistake so don’t feel bad if this has happened to you. Learn from it and move on. 

Here are some things we've learned over the years: 

1) Use lighted nocks  

They help you see the impact point of the arrow and find it as well. If you have a good idea on the shot placement, this will help when determining what type of hit was made. More on that later. 

2) Don’t take focus off the deer until you can no longer see or hear them.  Focus on them immediately after the shot. Too often we begin to celebrate and start calling our buddies immediately after the shot when this is a crucial time to pay close attention. I can’t tell you how many blood trails have started near a landmark we saw the deer run past while watching footage back after the shot. Most people don’t have the luxury of video so you’ve got to take mental pictures. Here are some crucial things to pay attention to. 

Landmarks they run past. 

Let's say you shoot a buck and it runs off to the end of a field and enters the woods. Mark the exact spot where the buck left the field so you can go to that spot and pick up blood. Hours and hours are sometimes spent just trying to find first blood. By paying attention to these things, you can eliminate a lot of the guess work.

Watch their body language. 

Often deer are surprised by the shot and bound away but will often stop to look back. Is their tail up or down? Are they showing signs of injury? 

Listen carefully for crashing or walking the leaves. 

Once the deer is out of sight listen closely for sounds of crashing or bedding down. If the buck has stopped down in the woods 100 yards away and you're making noise celebrating, there’s a chance he will hear it and go farther making for a longer blood trail.  

The fleeting moments immediately following a shot are not the time to lose focus.  This is the time to pay serious attention.

NEVER ASSUME THE DEER IS DEAD UNLESS YOU WATCH THEM EXPIRE

We’ve all made this mistake also. To many unpredictable things can happen with a deer that’s had an arrow shot through it. Countless times we’ve looked at a shot on film and said “that deer is double lunged and laying dead just out sight” only to find out MUCH later he wasn't hit where we originally predicted. 

DETERMINE SHOT PLACEMENT

After you calm down and collect your thoughts, it’s time to determine what you hit on the deer. Here’s a video that shows several archery shots on deer. We’ll discuss our immediate guesses on the shot followed by the actual placement when we found the deer.  You’ll notice that our guesses are often WRONG.  This is why the section above is so important.

HOW LONG DO I WAIT TO TRACK? 

The answer to this question depends entirely on other factors such as the shot placement and weather. As we get further into the tracking process, you’ll see that every step is incredibly important and leads to the next one. Using the information from closely watching and listening to the deer will help you determine shot placement. Your determination of shot placement will help you decide when and how to track.  

NOTE: The initial decisions you make often change rapidly while tracking. Don’t stay married to an initial plan or idea of shot placement if things aren't what you thought once you start tracking. If you think a deer is double lunged but jump it 3 hours later out of a bed, it’s time to rethink the hit and tracking strategy. 

Weather conditions need to be taken into account also. Ask these questions: 

1) Is the deer going to spoil if it’s left overnight in warm temperatures? 

2) Is rain in the forecast that could wash away blood?

REMEMBER: A wounded deer that’s still alive is often difficult to recover, especially when they are pushed.  You can’t recover a deer that isn’t dead.

Question: "Where did I hit the deer?" 

It's common for hunters to take shots in fading light, hear the arrow impact, but have no idea where it hit the animal. It's possible to look at blood, hair, and other bodily fluids to determine the hit location. In the video, Shane takes us through ways to determine your hit. We'll also discuss the key steps you need to take when tracking. 

 One of the biggest challenges with hunting public land is often retrieving and processing deer, especially when hunting remote areas. In this section we'll cover the following questions. 

1) How do you quarter a deer out?

2) At what point does meat begin to spoil and how do you prevent spoilage? 

3) How do you store meat on an out of state trip? 

4) What equipment do you use to process game at home? 

5) Game carts, sleds, and packs.  Which one do I need to get my deer out? 

Preventing Spoilage

The number one way to keep your deer meat from spoiling is to kill and recover the animal quickly.  We know this doesn't always happen but it also serves as a reminder that making good shots on deer is critical, especially in warm temperatures. We've harvested several deer in early season with temps above 70 degrees. The deer we recovered quickly tasted great and had no spoilage.  Those we had to leave overnight or recovered 6+ hours after the shot had issues either with spoilage or taste. With that said, deer we recovered in temperatures under 60 degrees were good even when recovery was delayed.  

There are multiple videos on YouTube which serve as a good resource for gutting and field dressing deer.  If you decide NOT to quarter your animal, it's best to gut the deer as soon as possible.

Here is a good example - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3sChcEu862s

Quartering Deer

We've started quartering and packing deer out more and more in the past 3 years.  Here's a video of how we do it!

Storing Meat Before Processing

We bring an overbuilt molded cooler of some kind on every trip. We have a couple of YETI's and Orion coolers.

STEP 1 - Chill the cooler a day or two before leaving on the trip.

Start with frozen milk jugs (or something similar) then add ice accordingly throughout your trip. Chilling the cooler ahead of time helps reduce the amount of ice it takes to hold a cool temp for multiple days.  

STEP 2 - Hang the meat exposed to the air in game bags. 

In warm weather this is an obvious step, but we've hung meat in 60 degrees and below in shade or overnight and it's cooled down nicely. Leave the meat on the quarter if possible to hang in the game bags overnight. Then store it in the cooler for the trip home. If the cooler has been properly chilled throughout the trip and kept in the shade, the meat will need very little ice to maintain cool temperatures. We brought an elk back in 90 degree weather from Wyoming last Fall and put ice on it one time during the trip back. 

Meat Processing 

Once the meat is home, we use a grinder and vacuum sealer to process and store in the deep freeze. This past Fall we used the 500 watt grinder from MEAT accompanied with their MEAT! Bags and Poly Bag Tape kit. The process works best if you can trim fat and silver skin off the meat. Adding a little bit of fat back in doesn't hurt anything either. 

For select cuts like steaks, roasts, ribs, etc. we use this vacuum sealer.  Buy plenty of extra vacuum bags as well.  

We also take a few deer to our local processor each season if we don't have the time to process at home.  

Game Retrieval Gear 

We've used a variety of deer carts, sleds, and packs for retrieving deer.  Please see the essential gear section in Chapter 2 to learn more about the individual products. 

Carts, sleds, and packs can all come in handy for varying scenarios in the field.  In some states it is illegal to quarter deer so you're left with a cart of sled for retrieval.  

In this section we’ll discuss information about each of the states we’ve hunted.  Tons of questions come in every day about this topic.

Question: Is a state like Iowa worth it to apply and wait four-five years to draw the tag?

Answer: Depends on your goals. There is some great whitetail hunting in Iowa especially on private land. Public land hunting during the rut can be amazing.  However, if your goal is to harvest a B&C caliber buck with a bow on public land - be prepared to spend a ton of time finding those specific deer to hunt. For a high quality rut hunting experience with multiple opportunities at nice bucks, IA is hard to beat.

Question: What is the best state to experience the rut?

Answer: Kansas and Iowa are the most well known but many states have deer seasons taking place in the rut.

Question: Which state has the most public land opportunities for DIY whitetails?

Answer: MO, TN, PA, OH, and WI have large amounts of quality public opportunities.

Question: Which state is your favorite to hunt?

Answer: Let’s discuss our experience and opinions on the states we’ve hunted.

We'll do our best to rate these based on the following criteria:

1) Affordability of tags

2) Overall access to huntable lands

3) Hunting pressure

4) Quality of deer 

As you'll see, there are many hidden gems across the country for whitetail hunting. States like New York, Pennsylvania, Georgia, and North Dakota can all provide excellent deer hunting experiences. If you're planning a DIY trip out of state, keep all your options open. The #1 factor when it comes to harvesting mature bucks is time in the field so efficiency matters when picking a state. 

In this section we'll summarize our experiences from each state we've hunted.  The most attention will go to places like Iowa and Kansas for good reason.  They are tremendous whitetail hunting destinations, but don't sleep on these other states where you can hunt more often with more public land options.